TARRAGON - Artemisia dracunculus

Tarragon is a leafy green perennial herb that is used quite extensively in French cuisine. It tastes like licorice, and can be used fresh or dried. However, there’s a definite difference between fresh and dried Tarragon. While the substitution is the same as for other herbs (1 tsp dried for 1 Tbsp fresh), many chefs won’t use dried Tarragon because they say the drying process destroys the subtle characteristics that make fresh Tarragon so desirable.

Not only does Tarragon contain the flavor of anise, it also contains a touch of vanilla, mint, pepper and eucalyptus. This is what makes Tarragon different from other herbs like fennel.

Tarragon doesn’t do well when grown from seeds. It’s much better to purchase plants from a local grower or nursery. Plants can be set out in early spring - a freeze won’t hurt them. Full grown plants will be about 2 or 3 feet high and about a foot wide.

Like most other herbs, Tarragon prefers full sun or light shade, and fertile well-drained soil. Harvest from your Tarragon plants on a regular basis to encourage branching. About 1 inch of water per week will do. And be careful with any fertilizer - unruly, floppy plants may be the result. To keep fresh Tarragon through the winter, pull up a few plants in the fall before they begin to go dormant. Pot them, and move them indoors to a cool, bright spot. You can then plant them back in the garden in early spring.

TIME TO EAT

Perhaps one of the most famous recipes using Tarragon is for French Bearnaise Sauce. This sauce can be used over steak, salmon, chicken and eggs. It’s quite versatile! Be sure to rinse and pat dry the leaves before use.

Ingredients: 1/4 cup white wine vinegar; 1 small shallot, peeled & minced; 1/2 tsp fresh ground black pepper; 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp chopped Tarragon leaves; 2 egg yolks; 12 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted; Kosher salt, to taste; splash of lemon juice (optional). Put the vinegar, shallots, black pepper and 1 Tbsp of Tarragon leaves into a small saucepan and set over medium heat. Bring just to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer until there are only a few tablespoons of liquid left (approx. 5 minutes). Remove from heat & set aside to cool. Fill a small saucepan with an inch or two of water and set over medium-high heat to boil. Put the cooled shallot/Tarragon mixture into a metal mixing bowl along with 1 Tbsp of water and the egg yolks. Whisk to combine. Turn the heat under the saucepan of water down to its lowest setting and put the metal bowl on top of the pan (you can use a double boiler pan if you have one). Continue to whisk the yolks until they thicken (approx. 5 to 7 minutes). The volume of the yolks should just about double. Slowly beat in the butter, a tablespoon or two at a time, whisking slowly to combine and emulsify. Remove the bowl from the pan occasionally so as not to overcook the eggs, and taste the sauce. Season with salt. Add a splash of lemon juice to intensify flavor if desired. If the sauce is too thick, add a splash of hot water. Add in the remaining teaspoon of Tarragon leaves and serve. Please see full recipe at cooking.nytimes.com.

BET YOU DIDN’T KNOW

Tarragon often is referred to as “the king of herbs” because its fresh flavor can enhance and elevate a dish like no other herb. It’s also one of the 4 herbs used in the French herb blend fines herbes, which combines Tarragon, parsley, chervil and chives. Fresh herbs are used for this blend and are added toward the end of a recipe.

While Tarragon definitely has a French origin and history, it’s very difficult to grow French Tarragon in the south. Mexican Tarragon (Tagetes lucida) is a much better choice for the southern kitchen garden. Mexican Tarragon still has that delicate licorice flavor (albeit a little sweeter) and can be used in any dish that calls for French Tarragon, but it’s way more heat tolerant. Mexican Tarragon sometimes is referred to as Mexican Marigold Mint because of its small gold flowers in the late summer and early fall. Native to Mexico, Mexican Tarragon has been used as incense, medicinally and as a hallucinogenic in religious ceremonies. Mexican Tarragon can be used fresh or dried in all of your favorite recipes.

I hope this gets you thinking about planting an herb garden. Here on the blog each week we’ll take a look at a different herb, and before you know it you’ll be ready to take on your own garden! If you’d like some help with design and planning, click the button below to reach out.